Nonetheless, this second helping is tasty enough to leave you wanting more. The action back at WGBH, for instance – the American TV network which now finds itself dangerously reliant on Child’s success – feels flat in comparison. These scenes are deliciously zippy take the French man who tells Child’s husband (played by Frasier star David Hyde Pierce) that he hurt his back in the course of an extramarital affair: “My mistress is a cruel mistress.” Lancashire’s Child is such a force of personality, however, that other storylines can struggle to meet her. The pair are divided between sticking to the ethos of French cooking or compromising for the sake of an American audience. Series two picks up with the cook in France, where she is working alongside co-author Simca (Isabella Rossellini) on their second cookbook. And as anyone who watched the first series of this playful comedy-drama knows, she is also a delight. Child filmed her famous show, The French Chef, in black-and-white, while Lancashire’s portrayal pops with colour. Sarah Lancashire’s turn as Julia Child, the TV chef who revolutionised American cuisine in the 1960s, is a far cry indeed from Happy Valley.
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